We are really looking forward to cooking demonstrations by the Lavash team, Kate Leahy and Ara Zada, on March 25 (Lavash: the bread that launched 1000 meals). Kate and Ara will also be talking with our evening’s host, Ed Stambollouian, about their travels and conversations around Armenia and Karabakh, meeting people, collecting recipes, and learning about the wonderful foods they encountered. From the recipes they gathered there, Kate will demonstrate how to make Jingalov Hats and Ara will show us Lavash-wrapped Trout. You might also enjoy our new magazine, Zanazan, where we feature an article about Jingalov Hats, the Karabakh women who make it even during wartime, and an excerpt from Lavash about the green ingredients.
Please note, this time our cooking event will not be a workshop where we work alongside the chefs but we do hope these will inspire you to try making them later. We have tried other recipes from the book and they are indeed delicious.
Lavash-Wrapped Trout with Tarragon
Serves 2 generously, 4 as part of a larger meal
We learned how to make this recipe from Nara Davtian, who in turn learned how to make it from her mother-in-law. Think of this dish as the French en papiotte style, wrapped in parchment paper, but even better because instead of paper, we’re using lavash. Other than the method of how the fish is cooked, what’s notable is the use of tarragon as the main seasoning for the trout, which gently imparts its anise flavour. If tarragon is out of reach, cilantro makes a good alternative, with a very different flavour.
It is an easy recipe to make for more people; just add more fish and lavash and increase the seasonings. If the fish are very large, you may want to cut them into thirds rather than halves. You can make this dish with bone-in trout, but be sure to warn family and friends that they’ll be taking the bones out of their fish parcels. We have also had success making this with salmon and other rich fish. Serve it with a green salad.
1 Tbsp sweet paprika
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
2 butterflied and deboned trout, head and tail attached (about 1 lb [455 g] total)
2 large sheets purchased lavash or 4 sheets homemade Lavash (from the book)
1/4 cup [57 g] unsalted butter, plus more for spreading
1 bunch tarragon
Lemon wedges for serving
Preheat the oven to 400ºF [200ºC]. Line a half sheet pan with parchment paper or lightly oil it.
In a small bowl, mix together the paprika and salt.
To prepare the trout, trim off the fins with scissors, then cut the trout in half. One portion will have the head and the other half will have the tail. Rub the salt blend inside and outside of the pieces, using all of the blend.
Trim each piece of lavash into a rectangle about 12 inches [35 cm] long and 10 inches [25 cm] wide. For each portion, place 1 tablespoon of butter and 2 sprigs of tarragon into the fish cavity, removing any tough stems if there are any.
Place each trout piece parallel to the base of the short side of the lavash. Fold the left and right sides of the lavash over the trout, then roll it up as if you were making a burrito.
Place the lavash packets, seam-side down, on the prepared pan and spread a little bit of butter on top. Bake until the lavash is browned and crisp, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately with a side of lemon wedges. Lavash-wrapped trout is best the day it is made.
Jingalov Hats : Flatbreads filled with greens
"Hats" is bread in Armenian, and this particular "hats" is a flatbread filled with greens, many of which are foraged. To make the bread, you will need a heaping 8 cups of chopped greens. We recommend washing all the greens and letting them dry a day ahead. When it's time to make the bread, first mix the dough and let it rest while you chop the greens. Aim for a combination of neutral or earthy greens, sour greens, and herbal greens. Neutral greens include beet greens, chard, collards, or spinach. Herbal greens include chervil, cilantro, dill, parsley, and tarragon. Sour greens can be anything from dandelion greens, to sorrel and watercress. If you run out of greens, you have a couple of options: roll out the extra dough and griddle it to make unleavened lavash. Or make a sweet version by filling it with cinnamon, sugar, and a little butter.
Makes 4
Dough:
2/3 cup [140 ml] lukewarm water
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 cups [210 g] all-purpose flour
Filling:
8 cups [440 g] sliced greens and herbs such as:
4 cups neutral greens, such as beet greens, chard, or spinach
2 cups fragrant herbs, such as dill, cilantro, tarragon, flat-leaf parsley, and chervil
2 cups sour greens and herbs, such as sorrel, dandelion greens, watercress, and radish greens
3 green onions, sliced (white and green parts)
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 1/2 tablespoons [22 ml] sunflower oil or other neutral oil
1 tablespoon [15 ml] lemon juice
Make the Dough
In a large bowl, combine the water and salt. Add the flour, one cup at a time, mixing with your hands to incorporate. Knead briefly in the bowl. (It's okay if it's slightly sticky at this point.)
Dust a work surface with flour. Turn the dough out onto the surface and knead until the dough is still starting to become smooth about 4 minutes. Roll the dough into a ball, put it in a lightly oiled bowl, cover it with a kitchen towel, and let it rest while you chop the greens and herbs. It will soften and become smoother as it rests.
After at least 20 minutes (or up to an hour), place the dough on the floured counter and divide it into 4 equal pieces, about 3 ounces (85 g) each. To shape the dough, cup the palm of your hand over one portion at a time and move your hand in a circle. The friction from the counter will help form the dough into a ball. If there is too much flour on the surface and the dough is sliding around, give the counter a spritz of water and try again.
To make the filling, mix the greens with the green onions, paprika, salt, red pepper flakes (if using), oil, and lemon juice, mixing well with your hands to ensure everything is seasoned.
To shape the jingalov hats, lightly dust the counter with flour. Pat a ball of dough into a round. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a thin circle about 8 inches [20 cm] in diameter.
Place about 2 cups of the filling in the center of the dough circle. Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds, if using. Pick up two sides of the circle and pinch them together over the center of the filling, almost like sealing pie crust. Continue to pinch the edges together from top to bottom so that the middle is wide and the ends form points. When you get to the end, tuck in the tip so it’s sealed but ensure that there is filling all the way to tip.
Firmly press the seam with the edge of your hand to ensure the dough is sealed. Turn over and flatten the dough with the palm of your hand so that it resembles a deflated football. It should be 1/4- to 1/2-inch [6- to 12-mm] thick. If thicker, roll with a rolling pin to flatten.
To cook the jingalov hats, heat a 20-inch [50-cm] cast-iron griddle or pan over medium-high heat. Place the filled dough, seam-side down, in the center. Lower the heat to medium and cook for 2 1/2 to 3 minutes until it is evenly brown. Flip over and continue to cook on the remaining side for another 2 minutes. If the dough still seems a little pale or raw, adjust the heat to medium-high and continue to cook the flatbread, flipping it over now and again so it cooks evenly. While the first flatbread cooks, start rolling out and filling the dough for the second jingalov hats.
Using a spatula, transfer the cooked flatbread to a serving platter and repeat the process with the remaining dough and filling. Serve warm or at room temperature. Alternatively, cool completely and freeze for up to 2 months. Jingalov hats can be reheated by popping them in the oven at 400ºF [200ºC] for about 10 minutes or until hot and crispy on the edges. Otherwise, extra jingalov hats keep for a day at room temperature or in the refrigerator for 3 days.